Photos:
While the primary attraction in Peru is Machu Picchu (MP), there are plenty of other places to visit and things to do depending on your interests (Lima, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Lake Titicaca and Peruvian Amazon Basin, to name a few.) Because MP lies at nearly 8000 ft elevation, you may want to consider the effects of altitude on your adventure (and allow a couple of days to acclimate. Rather than Googling all the bad things that can happen to your body at high altitude, remember that over two million tourists visit Cusco and MP each year, and only a handful have an extreme response to the elevation. Relax and enjoy the trip!)
On his first trip to the site, Hiram Bingham walked for six days. Those wanting to follow his path plan for a 4 day hike on the Inca Trail, which winds through the mountains and along the path of the ancient royal highway. Most others take a train to Aguas Calientes (AC, 6693 ft) on Day 3 and spend the next day at MP, as part of the shortest recommended itinerary: arrive at Cusco on Day 1 and depart on Day 5. Second day is for Cusco city tour, followed by Sacred Valley on Day 3 with overnight in AC.
At MP, busy season is July-August. During the day, park is most crowded mid-day when tour groups arrive. After they leave to take afternoon train back to Cusco, park is empty. We had the entire day at MP. Our plan was to hike HP (Huayna Picchu) first, and then spend as much time as needed to visit MP. Two hours should be plenty to cover the highlights.
Your first stop in Peru will most likely be Lima, known for its food, Next stop, unless you have other plans, will be Cusco. While Lima is nearly at sea level, Cusco is at 11152 ft. The L-shaped valley in which Cusco is situated requires planes to make a hard left turn just before landing. Because it is a VFR airport, weather can - and does - cause delays especially later in the day. Until a new airport is built outside this valley, it is best to book flights earlier in the day.
Cusco is considered the Inca (Kings) capital, and has legends rooted in Manqu Qhapaq, Lake Titicaca and sunken scepter. (Why would someone bother to build a civilization at 11000 ft back then? May be because they were coming down from Lake Titicaca at 12500 ft?) Regardless, Incas were considered aliens who consolidated local tribes to create the Incan Empire in Cusco and Sacred Valley, and then spread up and down the west coast of South America, until the Spanish Invasion in the 16th century. Locals will tell you that Spanish "ruined everything" for them. Yet, after being independent from Spain for nearly two centuries, the Spanish language and Catholicism still remains strong; also, Incan history is revered and celebrated.
You can pay a lot of money to visit Peru (and see/do a lot of more, plus travel in style), or a little (where you do the trip almost on your own, on a budget, with some guidance from locals.) The choice is yours.
Even sites like "Peru for Less" weren't that inexpensive for a similar 5 day itinerary. Through TripAdvisor, we accidentally found GringoWasi - a BnB that also helps arrange tickets and trips. For a whole lot less money, we opted for their Self-Guided 5 Day Machu Picchu, Sacred Valley & Cusco Itinerary. The plan worked out much better in reality because the owners (Lyle and Lily) were the ones driving/guiding us around and were very flexible to adjust plans as needed. This is how it really went:
While the primary attraction in Peru is Machu Picchu (MP), there are plenty of other places to visit and things to do depending on your interests (Lima, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Lake Titicaca and Peruvian Amazon Basin, to name a few.) Because MP lies at nearly 8000 ft elevation, you may want to consider the effects of altitude on your adventure (and allow a couple of days to acclimate. Rather than Googling all the bad things that can happen to your body at high altitude, remember that over two million tourists visit Cusco and MP each year, and only a handful have an extreme response to the elevation. Relax and enjoy the trip!)
On his first trip to the site, Hiram Bingham walked for six days. Those wanting to follow his path plan for a 4 day hike on the Inca Trail, which winds through the mountains and along the path of the ancient royal highway. Most others take a train to Aguas Calientes (AC, 6693 ft) on Day 3 and spend the next day at MP, as part of the shortest recommended itinerary: arrive at Cusco on Day 1 and depart on Day 5. Second day is for Cusco city tour, followed by Sacred Valley on Day 3 with overnight in AC.
At MP, busy season is July-August. During the day, park is most crowded mid-day when tour groups arrive. After they leave to take afternoon train back to Cusco, park is empty. We had the entire day at MP. Our plan was to hike HP (Huayna Picchu) first, and then spend as much time as needed to visit MP. Two hours should be plenty to cover the highlights.
Your first stop in Peru will most likely be Lima, known for its food, Next stop, unless you have other plans, will be Cusco. While Lima is nearly at sea level, Cusco is at 11152 ft. The L-shaped valley in which Cusco is situated requires planes to make a hard left turn just before landing. Because it is a VFR airport, weather can - and does - cause delays especially later in the day. Until a new airport is built outside this valley, it is best to book flights earlier in the day.
Cusco is considered the Inca (Kings) capital, and has legends rooted in Manqu Qhapaq, Lake Titicaca and sunken scepter. (Why would someone bother to build a civilization at 11000 ft back then? May be because they were coming down from Lake Titicaca at 12500 ft?) Regardless, Incas were considered aliens who consolidated local tribes to create the Incan Empire in Cusco and Sacred Valley, and then spread up and down the west coast of South America, until the Spanish Invasion in the 16th century. Locals will tell you that Spanish "ruined everything" for them. Yet, after being independent from Spain for nearly two centuries, the Spanish language and Catholicism still remains strong; also, Incan history is revered and celebrated.
You can pay a lot of money to visit Peru (and see/do a lot of more, plus travel in style), or a little (where you do the trip almost on your own, on a budget, with some guidance from locals.) The choice is yours.
Even sites like "Peru for Less" weren't that inexpensive for a similar 5 day itinerary. Through TripAdvisor, we accidentally found GringoWasi - a BnB that also helps arrange tickets and trips. For a whole lot less money, we opted for their Self-Guided 5 Day Machu Picchu, Sacred Valley & Cusco Itinerary. The plan worked out much better in reality because the owners (Lyle and Lily) were the ones driving/guiding us around and were very flexible to adjust plans as needed. This is how it really went:
- Day 1 – Our flight landed on time at 6:39 am, so we avoided rush hour traffic getting out of the city. On the way to Huarocondo about 45 minutes away, we stopped at a farmer's market to pick up some groceries before reaching GringoWasi. Owners live on the first floor and five BnB rooms are upstairs. There was only one other room occupied (by a couple.) After breakfast, they were visiting Cusco to finish up sightseeing they had missed previously. Although tired (not having slept much the previous night at Lima airport), I wanted to remain awake, so I joined them.
- Only TO DO for me was to get some currency exchanged at one of the money exchanges in Cusco. After shopping for the best rate (1 USD=3.36 Sols), I had some local currency to spend. At Lima airport, the going rate was 1 USD =3.13 Sols plus fees. Walked around a while before leaving Cusco to visit an orphanage about an hour away. The couple had brought some supplies for those children, and wanted to give them in person.
- After visiting the orphanage and having lunch with them, we returned to GringoWasi. I was totally exhausted and fell asleep until dinner (7 PM.) A family style dinner with one pasta dish was wholesome, tasty and filling. Had no trouble falling asleep after that. - Day 2 – It wasn't very cold inside the room, although it was a bit chilly outside. It quickly warmed up as the sun came up. After breakfast, we left for Cusco in a Collectivo privately hired just for us (It has 9 seats in which they normally transport as many people as can fit.) with Lily being our guide for the day. We began with sites on the hill above the city (Sacsayhuaman, Kenko, statue of Jesus recently donated by the local Palestinian community.)
- At the first stop, Sacsayhuaman ("Sexy Woman"), we purchased 130 Sols Tourist Card which allowed us entry to 16 different sites in Cusco and Sacred Valley - good for 10 days. They would check us in using Hi-Tech bar code scanner, and then using Lo-Tech, punch the card as well. Single entry can be 70 Sols, so Tourist Card is definitely the way to go. If you are passing by one of the attractions covered by your ticket, just pop in and check it out.
- Sacsayhuaman has the largest rocks found in any ruins in this region. Also, rock slide and caves, generally not covered by standard tours, were very interesting. Each ruin over these three days gave us a glimpse in to what Incas were able to build in different areas and different terrains - although the question "why" isn't satisfactorily answered thus far.
- After visiting ruins, we were dropped off at the main square, Plaza De Armas in Cusco. Our driver left to run his Collectivo until evening.
- Lily showed us the main square, nearby shopping areas and museums, and explained the history as we went along. Not being interested either in shopping or eating, we had plenty of time to do everything else, and then some. We also had to remind ourselves that we are at 11000 ft for only 24 hours thus far.
- The main plaza was like a giant party. Even on a weekday, the place was packed with locals. Some were lined up in front of the church for some procession to begin. Others were busy shopping or eating at street vendors. A marching band began playing in front of one church and then marched towards the plaza.
- We visited ChocoMuseo, Museum of Cultural History and Qurikancha. ChocoMuseo gave guided tours with tasting. Who knew that so many flavors for Chocolate butter and liquors are possible, in addition to the traditional dark, milk, white chocolate bars. That was a very interesting experience. They also offer 2 hour workshops on how to make chocolate, and sell Artisanal products in their store and online.
- We were done ahead of time and waited by the water fountain until our ride arrived to transport us back to GringoWasi for dinner.
- Next day was going to be a long day and we weren't returning to GringoWasi until a day later. We received all our tickets to MP, and knew the name of the hotel at AC. Good thing was that we could just take our day packs and leave most of our luggage in our room here. - Day 3 – The couple in the other room had an early flight from Cusco, so we needed to leave at 6:30 am. (Cusco airport was almost on our way to Sacred Valley starting point.) By now, we had forgotten about Altitude and were just going with the flow. It was however too early to have breakfast, so we just took some sandwiches along for later. On Day 5, we were leaving an hour earlier - expect even less traffic going in to Cusco.
- After airport, our first stop was the Cochahuasi Animal Sanctuary, a not for profit organization tending to rescued birds and animals. Most animals were in the open and some would allow you to touch them - hairless dogs, monkeys. llamas, mountain lions, condors, macaws, turtles, rabbits and so on.
- Next was the archeological site of Pisac (Pisaq.) Not having much faith in the guide community, and being more interested in "seeing" things as opposed to "hearing" about them, we explored the site on our own. Of course, Lyle was with us to answer any questions.
- We continued West through the Sacred Valley and stopped at the Inkariy Museum, sitting quietly in the middle of nowhere (and not yet on the tour bus stops.) Recently created, this museum focuses around most important 8 pre-Colombian cultures that tells the story of Peru. Lyle was our guide, having been here several times. The museum is excellent.
- Having extra time to spare, we stopped by a local brewery for beer tasting and tour. Couple running the brewery - he is from DC, she is from LA - are making it work in Sacred Valley. Great way to relax for a couple of hours in the middle of the day.
- The last stop was the living Incan city of Ollantaytambo. Here again, we chose to explore the site on our own with Lyle. Our only souvenir of the trip was a chess set with wooden pieces depicting the Incas and the Spanish.
- We reached the train station early enough and had time for dinner. The restaurant had free WiFi (but paid restroom - 1 Sol) For the past couple of days, Lyle and Lily encouraged us to try local food and specialties (Ice creams, Cuy, Chicha morada, Causa con relleno de pollo, corn on the cob.) We resisted the temptation for the most part. We took a sip of Chicha Morada, purplish-black non-alcoholic beverage, and had Causa as snack during our Cusco visit. (Chicha is almost always assumed to be alcoholic and is very popular.) Hesitantly, we had dinner at the train station - chicken sandwich and hamburger. It was well cooked and tasty - more importantly, no trouble afterwards. Corn on the cob - with large white kernels - looked tempting. Because it is boiling right in front of you, it should be safe to eat. Lyle did warn that it is NOT at all sweet as you'd expect it to be - so I dropped the idea.
- At 6:30 pm, people lined up at the gate to catch 7:00 pm train to Aguas Calientes. Reserved cars A, B, C were at the back of the train - here the foreigners pay $60 for comfortable reserved seats with a table in front, and airline kind of snack for the two hour ride. The cars have large windows most of the way to the top. However, it was dark already so there was no scenery to enjoy outside.
- The train reached AC, where it was a chaotic scene. Most tourists were looking for their hotel person holding signs with their names. Some hotel people (and group organizers) were walking around shouting names of their passengers. We walked up to the exit, looked around but saw no sign with our names - the person was actually standing very close to us, but the name was misspelled. Finally, we were on our way. It was only 4 blocks but walking through the crowds it felt much farther. Although it was called a hostal, it was like any regular motel. Our room was basic but clean and had all the necessities, including WiFi. We were asked when we would have breakfast next morning (8 am.)
- It was late enough; we already had a long day so we showered and went to sleep. - Day 4 – At around 4:45 am, those heading to MP to watch sunrise were heard rushing off after breakfast. We had 10 am tickets for HP, so we were in no hurry. (We had seen sunrises and sunsets every day in Galapagos for the past couple of weeks.)
- At 6 am, I went for a walk around AC, and managed to get bus tickets (no waiting.) After returning, we had breakfast - scrambled eggs, bread with butter/jam, tea/coffee and banana, before checking out. We left our bags at the front desk and took just the day pack - wish we had taken more water!
- There was no waiting for the bus either - we got on the first one, and there were two others waiting right behind. Soon after we started, an audio explained a bit about the bus service, and that it will take 25 minutes to reach. The bus started on the right bank of the Urubamba river, crossed over in less than a mile and then climbed up 1000 feet in a series of switchbacks. The buses are large (40 people) and the road is one lane wide for the most part. It was a tight fit when buses going in the opposite directions had to pass. Having done that about 10 times, we reached the top.
- Our tickets permitted us to spend the entire day at MP - with up to 3 re-entries. Our single entry tickets to HP allowed us to enter between 10 and 11 am, and had 4 hours to finish. Most people just do HP - but the longer trek would take you to the Moon Temple, some caves as well as Huchu Picchu, the little peak you see between MP and HP.
- We were told that sometimes they let people in early, so we crossed the entire MP site, took some pictures and walked straight to the entrance to HP. Of course, we had to wait until 10 to get in. Each person entering showed their ticket, signed in, and remembered their number (1-200 for 7 am, 201-400 for 10 am)
- The sky was absolutely clear - no clouds, no fog. Temperatures were expected to be 81 degrees for high, but it was pleasant in the morning. Perfect day to climb HP. Moreover, the climb to the top is entirely on the West side, in the shade. There was no breeze to speak of. We were sweating primarily due to exertion. Running out of water here is not good - we did by the time we reached the top. Luckily, it was cool enough and still in shade as we came down, so not having water was fine.
- As you will read elsewhere, this is a tough climb. Almost straight up - with uneven stone steps, only some areas had cables to hold on to, and no end in sight. Luckily, due to limited entry tickets, most people from 7 am group were already out - only a few stragglers were coming down while we were going up. Faster people from our group had already gone ahead, the rest of us were bunched up together, taking turns to pass each other, only to be passed by them a few minutes later. In the end, we must have reached the top around the same time.
- Along the way, there are many view points - not to mention 360 degree view once you reach the top. There was a line of people waiting to have their pictures taken at the top, with a park ranger keeping the line moving, but everyone had enough time to look around and enjoy the view that they labored so hard to get to.
- Going down was equally challenging, if not more. We later heard about a woman (may be half an hour after us) who slipped and had to be brought down on a stretcher. Apparently, she wasn't injured too badly and was talking to her daughter on the phone according to someone who saw the episode.
- It was around 12:30 PM when we reached the exit. Had we any water left, I would have pushed myself to climb Huchu Picchu - only 150 ft climb that would have taken 45 minutes or so. As we exited, I noticed that the first person from our group returned almost an hour before us. But this wasn't a race, only a marathon, at best.
- Now we had plenty of time to see the MP site - and rest as needed. We didn't think paying 5 Sols for 625 ml water bottle was worth it. We were OK to walk again after some rest. The trouble with resting in between is that getting going again takes a lot of willpower. If at all possible, I never sit down during hikes until I am back at the hotel at the end of the day. Blame it on altitude, today, I sat down and then I didn't want to climb a single step. Of course, that wasn't possible. The entire MP site is up and down - not to mention the one ways, which force you to take lower paths back to the exit and then have you climb several steps to get out of the park. Here is more about our experience at Machu Picchu. - As we exited the park, a bus about to leave. We got on and reached AC around 3 PM.
- First order of business was to buy water. We had run out while coming down at HP and were very thirsty. Chilled 2.5 liter water bottle in the very first corner store did the trick. We returned to the hotel and relaxed in the lobby until it was time to go to the train station.
- We reached the train station by 5:50 pm to board the 6:20 train. Hiram Bingham train was still boarding. After it departed, we boarded and were off to Ollantaytambo.
- We reached around 8 pm, found Lyle, and returned to Huarocondo about an hour later. Along the way, we stopped at a quiet, dark spot to admire the clear sky full of sparkling stars (just like we did in Galapagos.) Being further south than the Galapagos, which is right at the Equator, we were hoping to see the Southern Cross, but it wasn't visible. After a quick snack, we went up to pack up and go to sleep. - Day 5 – This was not only our last day of the Peru trip, but also the end of vacation. We were flying straight back to SFO the same day after connecting in LIM and SAL with only 1 1/4 hour layover each. Not much room for error. On the other hand, since we were going home, delays had very little consequence (except spiking our blood pressure from time to time.)
- The day began early when we left at 5:30 am and reached airport in less than an hour. Just as our 7:22 am flight was ready to push back on time, the pilot announced that due to heavy traffic in Lima we were to wait in Cusco for half an hour. We were assured that our connecting flights will be held for us, so there was less of a worry. One woman was so worried about missing her connecting flights that she kept checking with the flight attendants. She was also going to SFO, so we made a deal - whoever gets to the next gate first holds the flight for the other. We made all connections just fine.
- At LIM, we had about an hour make the roundtrip from the first plane all the way out of the airport, only to turn around, go through security, immigration and back on to the next plane. The plane was pushed back right on time, and then.... we sat on the tarmac for some time before returning back to the gate. One hour delay here, meant only half an hour at SAL to run for the next flight. Yeah! The previous day, this flight was 4 hours late.
- At SAL, although the airport is small and you can go directly to the next gate, flights for the U.S. had a special gate (14) with its own security. There were plenty of passengers from our previous flight running behind us to catch the same flight. Miraculously, the flight still left on time.
- In the end, we made all the connections and arrived at SFO 10 minutes early at 7:49 PM. As we have done in the past, we ignored horror stories about flight delays and assumed that everything will work out. Most often, it does.